Living in a surf community, for those of you who, like me, do not surf, can become rather monotonous. At times I find it rather disheartening. To share a common passion is such a beautiful thing and I honor the beauty and fluidity of the sport! Really, I do! I just wish that sometimes the conversation could include some other topics…..
Punta Abreojos is such a naturally stunning place; it attracts avid surfers and kite borders alike, but few of them actually live here for more than a few weeks (even days) at a time. Naturally their time here revolves around their passion. But certainly there is more to life than the waves! It was at one such point of frustration that I told Robert I was questioning my ability to live here full time. “Please, I need something more!”
In a stroke of genius he suggested we take a little ‘vacation’. We plan on going to the Sea of Cortez this winter and it is blistering hot there right now, so that was out of the question. However Bahia Asuncion, a town just a 2 ½ hour drive up the coast, has a new B&B that looked to be just the ticket. Thank goodness for the internet; we found all we needed to make what looked like a wonderful overnight adventure.
We asked our neighbors up the hill, Mona and Jerry, to go with us and off we started one Monday morning, bags packed and picnic lunches in hand. We stopped at Punta Chorros, a surf spot just a few kilometers south of the town to walk and explore before heading on and checking in.
Jean and Ed Epifani, the owners of Bahia Asuncion B&B couldn’t have been more pleasant and delightful. We hit it off right away. The rooms were clean and beautifully decorated. Since they were not quite finished with the construction, they gave us a wonderful deal on the price. They live half the year in Punta Chivato, on the gulf side, and half the year at the in Bahia Asuncion. Fluent in Spanish, Jean leads trips to Oaxaca at least once a year and she is a wealth of knowledge concerning all things Mexican.
After suggesting several places for dinner, the guys’ desire for a burger won out and we went to Loncheria Mari. What a hoot! Tomas, the owner and chef was entertaining, accommodating and he makes a mean seafood cocktail. We had way more food than we could eat, and it was all so good! As we sat at the table, beers in hand, my eyes wandered around the small room and rested on the ceiling fan just above. All 3 light bulbs were a different color – 2 of them even painted in swirls! And a goofy Christmas reindeer ornament hung as a pull. I just have to love the Mexican way, always a surprise!
Tomas asked us if we wanted musica and when we said, yes, but not too loud please, he put on a mix of Reggae and Carlos Santana; it set a perfect tone for the evening. Mona wanted a mineral water, so Tomas ran down the street to buy one. Robert and Jerry wanted tequila, so Robert drove back to the B&B and got a bottle he had brought. Through it all Tomas smiled, laughed and conversed with us with a pure open heart. We so enjoyed our meal there!
We turned in shortly after returning to our rooms and thankfully the beds were wonderful. (Jean’s innkeeper’s motto is ‘don't dread the beds!’)The following morning she delivered fresh coffee and then breakfast to the patio table between our 2 rooms, so we could just stumble out of bed, sit outside and enjoy the morning air. Ahhh, just what the doctor ordered! My spirits were definitely picking up.
It turns out that Jean is a beautiful weaver and she shared with me some of her pieces. In our conversation she opened up a whole new side of Baja for me – the art community. J She knows so many local artists and has connections to shows in Baja. I was even invited to participate. I am saved! I am sure that we delayed breakfast by quite a bit; we were so engrossed in art talk.
About 3 weeks earlier we happened to meet a woman in Vizcaino while standing line at the bank. She told us she lived in Bahia Asuncion, but what we didn’t know is that she’s a good friend of Jean and Ed’s, so Beth joined us for breakfast on the patio. (Jean had told her we were coming.)
Beth is also an artist. She makes beautiful jewelry from fossilized shells and shark’s teeth. We visited her house/studio after leaving Jean and Ed’s and spent a wonderful day getting to know her and seeing her creations. She lives out on the point and listening to the waves crashing and the seal rookery there was a totally different experience than our more tranquil bay front property.
Driving home I felt reborn. 2 whole days with conversation that did not revolve solely around surf – heaven! I felt alive again. There is hope for me here yet! Robert suggested that anytime I feel the need I should just jet up the road and get a dose of artistic conversation.
I guess it’s all about your passion~
For more information on Bahia Asuncion check out the town’s web site. Also listed is Jean and Ed’s B&B, along with Loncheria Mari. http://www.bahiaasuncion.org/index.html
For more information on Jean’s 10 day trips to Oaxaca (which we will be taking in Feb 2012!) email her at: jeanbcs@hotmail.com
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