Saturday, November 30, 2013

The Neigborhood


There’s something about the early morning hours that call me to get up and tune in to the quiet stillness. For years now I have awakened in the wee hours (la madrugada) and padded out to my chair to meditate, write or pray, whatever feels best. So of course I would create just such a place in our new Todos Santos home. It was in those silent hours that I stood by the large picture window gazing out across the barren expanse of dirt that is currently the backyard, when something caught my eye. Just 30 feet or so from the house, a large black thing lumped on the ground. What in the world?!

Exiting the back door I cautiously approached said mound which seemed to be a rough 8 foot circle that sat about 4 feet tall. It wasn’t until I was about 10 feet away that it moved ever so slightly and exhaled in a contented huff. It was a big black cow. With a healthy set of horns. Sleeping in my yard. Of course I extended the invitation to enjoy the yard as l was not about to try and move her. Secretly thrilled and delighted at the absurdity of it all I wondered if Robert would believe me in the morning, but by then she had left hefty ‘calling card’, so the proof was plain as day. Oh look, our first load of manure for the coming garden!

She showed up again later the next day, along with a friend, and they stood at the small opening in the side fence staring wistfully at the expanse of dirt. Her owner (I suppose) came and retrieved them in the afternoon. He looked only slightly sheepish. Generally when we see them now they are out in the brush of the adjoining lots munching away. However I did see her walking determinedly up the middle of the street yesterday. And today as she sauntered along the road she bellowed deeply every few steps. I am sure she must live nearby somewhere.

There are 3 local horses that have the same freedom. I’ve heard that their owner just lets them wander so that they can forage for themselves and he doesn’t have to feed them. We cross paths quite often. One morning I noticed that during the night they had been in the yard. Hoof prints covered the property. They must have been checking us out thoroughly.

And then there’s the old paunchy Beagle that stops by occasionally – Sidd, his name tag reads. Though where he lives is a mystery to us. He likes to mosey over, see what we’re up to and get some attention.

This is just a part of the neighborhood where we have begun to settle in. I am continually surprised and delighted by it.
Our road, Calle Los Mangos
Mexico is truly another country. The juxtapositions are endless. For instance a huge multi-million dollar house is being built at the end of the road – “the Italian’s house”. It is stunningly modern with a view to die for and landscaping that won’t quit. There have to be 20 trabajdores (workers) there every day. They have been building this house for well over a year, probably 2, and they still have 6 months to go on the inside alone. We love to pass by on our way to the beach and peek in the gate. (I really want to see that house.) I wonder if the wandering livestock have been inside?

Our first week here while driving to Cabo on errands we encountered a traffic jam. A big rig had had difficulty on the uphill part of the 3 mile dirt road detour and was blocking the lanes. With cars becoming backed up in both directions some resourceful road workers jumped out of their trucks across the way, grabbed shovels and while one cheerfully began to direct traffic, waving his arms in huge circles, the other created a new pathway around the stranded truck. Problem solved. We waved and honked in appreciation as we finally got moving ahead. You just learn to go with the flow, no matter how long it takes.

By the time we got to Cabo and were half way down the l-o-n-g list of thing to accomplish we found ourselves at Home Depot. For an hour, at least, we searched and searched for the listed items. The Latin mind organizes differently than that of the average American. How in the world do they do inventory? I’ve yet to find a store that makes any sense to me, but there must be some method to the madness because they are all that way. As any homeowner knows, Home Depot can be overwhelming anyway! Add in another language and the fact that the workers can’t find things either, but they do guess a lot, and you have one mind numbing experience. Paint – check, garden hose – check, screws- check, trash cans- check, work gloves – check. After an infinity we were starving and decided to bail on the rest of the list in favor of stopping by Costco on the way home for pizza. (Read fast and easy) At least we had the leather work gloves so the big wall building project could begin! The next day I noticed Robert struggling with his gloves. What??? The package contained 2 gloves, both left handed……Sigh…

I now have so much more appreciation for anyone who has moved. We were in San Diego for so long that I think I had forgotten what it takes to pick up and go. Well, I remember now. It’s an adventure that I wouldn’t miss, yet none the less it has its moments. I think the language difference plays a part in that. We’re still taking our weekly Spanish lesson with Serena and we love it, but until I can think like a Mexican, it still confuses me often. I am in awe of those who move to places where the alphabet isn’t even the same and you can’t even begin to guess what the signs mean….

The whales have arrived! Walking down the road to the beach, I get excited thinking about what I might see. The other day I saw 28 breaches (yes I counted!), 12 spy hops and a couple of tail slaps – all about a mile off shore! I have almost stopped getting excited about seeing their spouts, but not quite yet.


Every evening at a couple of designated shelters just-hatched baby turtles are released to begin their lives at sea. The Turtle Project collects the eggs from the nests and then tends to them until they hatch. Besides the regular predator risks, beach use can injure the eggs, crushing them unknowingly. Additionally, once hatched, the babies can’t navigate from the nest to the water through rough sand that has been churned up by feet and tire tracks. Anyone can join the sunset release to cheer the hatchlings on as they scurry down the carefully chosen smooth sand toward the water. It is an amazing sight. Crowds gather – especially on weekends. Grownups and children alike snap pictures, take movies, moan when the incoming water misses the exhausted little creatures by just inches and applaud when one is finally swept away by the waves.

Quite a neighborhood we’ve joined! Our days are filled with miracle after miracle, wonder upon wonder. We love it.

What a gift this life is!

Wednesday, November 13, 2013

Welcome to Todos Santos


Each morning begins with the sound of chickens – roosters actually. One begins to herald the sun sometime around 3:30 or so and soon several chime in creating a call that travels the neighborhood like a game of Ollie-Ollie-All-In-Free. I have to smile even if it awakens me. It reminds me of Kauai. A few days ago I opened my front door just before dawn to the sound of an owl greeting me, Good morning!

Dawn is a precious time here in Todos Santos. Most people like to watch the sunset each day, but I prefer the sunrise. There is something so fresh, so filled with potential, so earthy about it. It’s a delight to awaken in the dark and lie in bed looking out the window at the star-filled sky. Slipping out of the sheets and into a light shift, I pad out to the living room while opening windows and doors to let in the cool air. With a cup of tea and a lit candle the new day is honored with quiet reflection, until the sun begins its ascent into the clear blue sky and everything heats up. The doves begin to coo and the geckos give their farewell chatter just as the line of tall fan palms at the back of the property turn from dark silhouettes, to golden orange, to brilliant green. So far it has not failed to amaze me. I cherish each moment as a gift from the Universe; wow another day, a new adventure.

That’s not to say that this move has been stress-free. As much as I often try and pretend otherwise, that wouldn’t be honest. Every so often I have to stop, and admit that fear of change does show up, a new country, a new language, new friends, new, new new. Sure we’ve been in Abreojos on and off for a couple of years, but this feels more real. This isn’t a beach house where we can be isolated from the populace if we choose. It’s got a day to day life that just isn’t there in Abre.  Or maybe it’s just that I am choosing that here.

Then there’s the whole house to get settled and stocked, register with the power companies, a phone/internet line to get installed, Mexican bank account to open, shopping to be done and all this in another language. (Keep opening Jill. Keep letting it all in, don’t shut down, just go with the flow.) Our Spanish is improving every day, and when it comes to construction or work related conversations Robert is getting pretty darn efficient! And I seem to have hit a point where, even if I am butchering the language, I’ll try anyway. For so long I really tried to speak it only correctly, but I see that it held me back and I approached it with fear. Something shifted for me this past summer, I began to let my mind go and let my heart speak. And you know what? It works!

Leaving Abreojos our caravan of 2 trucks and a trailer spent 3 days getting down here, though it’s only a 10 ½ hour drive. But between a flat on the trailer the 1st day (everything was fine and numerous people stopped to offer assistance) and then a long delay south of Loreto as the highway was closed due to an accident, we just decided not to push. When we pulled up to our new home there was a bottle of French champagne and mineral water in the cold fridge with 2 crystal glasses, courtesy of our wonderful real estate agent, Alvaro Colindres.  I love French champagne…..

Amidst boxes and disarray we polished off the bottle that evening, after walking to the beach for sunset. After all, we couldn’t find the stopper for the bottle and heaven forbid it go bad!! Within 2 days or so everything was pretty cleared up – except the extra bedroom/catchall. Then we went to Cabo for supplies and began the whole process again. We’ll be going back and forth quite a bit to start, I can tell. Thank goodness for Costco!

But we’re here. We’re going for it. Things arise that flummox me and make me anxious, but if I stop and allow it, breath and let the emotions flow, I know the answers will come, somehow.  The people in Todos Santos have been more than welcoming. From neighbors, to shopkeepers, to baristas everyone has offered assistance and we are so grateful.


photo by Alvaro Colindres
This beautiful adobe home is fast endearing itself to our hearts. It cools us in the heat of the day, and warms us during the evening chill. It asks nothing of us but our authenticity, our participation in making it and the surrounding soon-to be-garden a space of love and peace.   I think we’re going to get along very very well.