It began a
week ago – Dec 5th to be exact. We had reservations to fly to San Diego.
So after packing all the cold weather clothes we could find and leaving a gate
key with a new friend who offered to check on the place every day, we loaded the
trusty little Toyota truck and began the hour journey to the La Paz airport.
Something in the back of my head said to allow extra time to get there and I
heeded that voice – thank goodness!
Not far from
Todos Santos the truck began to sputter and miss. ‘Bad gas?’ we thought and then
just as we entered the outskirts of La Paz, at a major intersection, the truck
died, just died; no possibility of it turning over. The policeman who was
directing traffic gathered some trabajadores
(workers) and they helped push us to the side of the road. For the first time
ever, Robert looked at me and blankly said, ‘I have no idea what to do.’ Here we were in a city we don’t really know
and trying to catch a flight. My stomach lurched and inside I called for help. ‘Ok, if ever there was a time we need it,
Angels, it’s now!’
Little by little
men started to stop by our truck to see if they could assist us, each one
shaking or tapping an engine part – all mystified. It was obvious that we needed
a tow and a place to leave the truck, but where? And how? Parked in front of us
was a big boom truck whose driver suddenly appeared so Robert asked him for a
tow. The policeman suggested that we might be able to park at the police
station around the corner, if the comendante
said it was ok. Thankfully the truck driver had a tow rope so while the trabajadores stopped all traffic on the busy
highway, and the policeman directed us, our tow angel crossed all 4 lanes in a
U turn, then reversed his direction to get us the remaining 8 blocks to the police
station.
Noticing a couple
of taxis across the street I fetched one while the truck driver went into the station
to explain our predicament to the comendante.
Unfortunately he was nowhere to be found and no one else dared to give us permission.
By this point the taxi driver had joined us and as none of us was exactly sure how
to proceed I called once again for some help. Right then a female police
officer approached us and seeing our plight (and the angst on our faces) told
us that if we didn’t mind parking out further in the dirt lot and understood
that they could not be responsible for the safety of our vehicle, it’d probably
be ok to park there. What a relief! We looked around at this point to tip and
thank the truck driver, but he and his massive rig had disappeared….
Victor
Sanchez’s taxi is a Ford Gran Marquis, of which he is very proud ‘muy lujos!’ (very luxurious). An older gentleman with an infectious smile
and graceful demeanor, he told us that even though the airport was very far he would
get us there on time. The twisting turning route he took through the city was
one that only a local could know. We
pulled up to the curb with more than enough time to spare and he handed us his
card saying to be sure and call him when we returned so that he could pick us
up and help us get the Toyota fixed. He also promised to check on it every day
as it now resided close to his taxi stand. Taking his hand in mine I told him, ‘Usted es mi angel!’ (You are my angel!)
He melted. And with that we walked into the airport shaken but with plenty of
time to calm down and enjoy a coffee.
It was dark
by the time we arrived at the garage where our Honda is parked. We were so
happy to be there! We threw our bags into the trunk and jumped in ready to
roll.
Dead battery…..
Even though
it had been plugged into a maintainer, it was dead dead dead so Robert went
searching the neighborhood for a jump. An unknown neighbor offered and soon we
took off to drive and charge it before we went on errands. However, later, upon
exiting Trader Joes it wouldn’t start. Two guys jump out of their vehicle and
help push start it. More angels! We drove for 20 miles to really charge it before we ended up at ‘home’. Exhausted and cold,
we settled into our new digs to get a good night’s sleep.
The next
morning the batter was dead again, but since our mechanic’s shop was located
very close by he came to jump us and fix it all up. We had no choice but to slow
down and relax that morning.
While we had
a wonderful time in SD and we got to see so many friends and family, everything
was overlaid with a concern for the truck parked in a lot somewhere in La Paz.
We were not even quite sure we knew exactly where it was. A couple of wonderful
mechanics discussed the whole breakdown with Robert and they both were pretty
sure that it was an alternator issue, so Robert bought one and packed it in his
suitcase. Please angels, let the truck be
there when we return, with all parts still attached and radio too!
We called
Victor before flying out from Tijuana. Of course he remembered; we could expect
him to be there. As we exited the La Paz airport we searched for Victor with
his prized Gran Marquis, to no avail, so we settled in to wait – maybe traffic
had held him up. Then out of a line of cars we hear his voice, ‘Lupita, Roberto, aqui!’ He sprinted up
to us wearing shorts, sandals and a baseball cap- not what one expects of a
Mexican gentleman. He pointed to a little old sedan that he had borrowed from
his daughter – this was our chariot. Legally he cannot pick anyone up from the airport
– only those with a special license can do that, so he came incognito. He had
gone stealth; both driving and looking like a tourist.
First he
drove us to his home to both introduce us to his wife and to change vehicles. (‘Mi casa es su casa’ he declared.) He had
worked out a plan of attack. Unhooking the battery from his daughter’s car he put
it in the trunk of his taxi. This was to be installed in the Toyota, just to
get it to the mechanic who could then install the new alternator. With that we
drove off to retrieve the truck.
It was
completely intact, even the police were mildly surprised.
Installing the
battery was more like a game of musical chairs than mechanical science. His
daughter’s battery didn’t fit in our truck because the terminals were on the
wrong side, so Victor removed his taxi battery and installed it in the truck.
He then installed our dead battery in
his taxi and when Robert questioned how he would then start the taxi, he winked
and told Robert to get in the car and turn the ignition. Laying his daughter’s
battery on its side and holding its terminals to the truck battery terminals,
it jumped them and roared to life. This way he explained our truck battery
would be charging in his taxi while we drove across town to Martin the mechanic.
We crossed town through traffic, over bumpy dirt roads ending up back in his barrio where Martin and his son
immediately began to install the new alternator and restore all the correct
batteries to their rightful vehicles.
Meanwhile, since
Victor had taken his daughter’s car for the day we had to go pick her up from
work and take her home. Thanking her for her part in all this, we then returned
to find that our truck was finished. We could be on our way.
Standing in
front of the truck I mentioned to Victor that many angels had come through for
us. He made light of it, but just then I looked down and on the ground and right
at my feet, in the dirt, was a little angel charm. I bent over and pocketed the
little gem, knowing that it was meant just for me.
So little
was asked for in return for such huge services, we would hear nothing of it and
gave generously even though no amount could possibly express our gratitude. We didn’t
expect to be able to drive home to Todos Santos that same day. Surely we would
have to spend the night in La Paz, we thought, and then find a mechanic, and heaven
knows what else, but no. We made it home just as the sun was sending its last
little slivers of light into the darkening sky.
With no food
in the house we decided to stop at a local restaurant and get some
dinner. Purchasing a beer for Robert and a margarita for me, the cashier gave
us each a second one on the house, because we looked like we could use it she
said, and ‘because you’re nice’.
So we are
home and we’re all the richer for it! What an adventure! What a multitude of
gifts! And we now have ‘family’ in La Paz. I know people all the world over are
good and kind.
And 10,000
angels? Well, there just might be more.
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