Lying in bed
in the early morning hours I heard music from several houses over drifting
through the open window. It was punctuated occasionally by an inebriated voice
wailing in tandem. It wasn’t so loud as to be annoying, but I was glad that we
didn’t live any closer. As the clock struck 3, right on cue, a gallo (rooster) joined the vocalist,
tentatively at first, then robustly as he began to warm up to his daily chore. It
actually seemed to trigger some distant memory within the singer (of sleep maybe?)
and finally the music died at 4:30 a.m. It was the Saturday before Christmas
and everyone was now officially off work and school for the next 2 weeks. I thought
I had noticed a very festive air on all the faces the day before as I went
about town. There were parties galore all through the day and night – and even,
evidently, into the predawn hours.
The weather
station had called for rain, high winds and cold weather and throughout the day
a smattering of droplets had fallen. It was just enough to make the accumulated
dust on the cars become really obvious, but certainly not enough to make the Friday
night diners at the outdoor pizza restaurant (Los Mangos Pizzeria) go sit under the eaves of the porch. Well,
not most of us anyway. The fact that we had put on long pants and a jacket to
dine al fresco could have signaled a cooling trend, I will admit. Most days the
windows still stay wide open and shorts with tee shirts are the average daily uniform
of the majority of the populace.
Christmas is very
festive here in Todos Santos, as it is in many parts of the world, but it feels
more intimate. I always thought that a posada
was a tradition here in Mexico (it being a Christmas walk through town with
lighted candles to honor the famous search for shelter in Bethlehem) however in
looking for such a procession I had come up woefully short. A longtime resident
told me that nowadays posada means
‘party’ for the most part. And there are lots and lots of those around each
evening. Many businesses have had posadas
for their trabajadores and customers
alike. Some welcome the whole town. The posada
was on my definite list of things-I-want-to-experience-here so I was very sorry
to learn, too late, that there was a traditional posada last night. Tonight one of the local expat hangouts will be
hosting another one. This I will not miss, even if it most likely will be
different than ‘traditional’. But they said to bring a candle, dress warmly and
be ready to sing carols and indulge in special treats, so major de nada!
Noches Beunas, or poinsettias as they are called in
the US, are offered at a few nurseries, though they don’t seem to be as much a
staple here, more a treat than must-have. Houses adorned with lights are more
low key with no attempts to out-do one another. Roadside stalls selling all
kinds of things have sprung up, from fruits and vegetables to handmade gifts. It
is definitely Christmas, though without the glitz and hype.
Last weekend
there was live music at La Esquina,
our favorite coffee house. Pura Vida played
a mixture of Reggae, Latin, Salsa and exceptional dance music. We had 3 young
surfing buddies of Robert’s stop by unexpectedly (our 1st guests at the
house!) so they joined us, along with many neighbors, friends and a good
portion of the town it seemed, to get our boogie down. No one waited to hit the
dance floor. From the 1st song it was packed, from age 80 to the single
digits. Even some dogs joined the throng. I love watching people dance, but
even more I love to do it. Each person letting him/herself express in whatever
way feels good, how wonderful! Yes, there are those who definitely groove to the
beat on a more synchronistic level, but still everyone was swaying, moving,
enjoying. And after all, that is the whole purpose, utter pleasure.
Everyone
seems to be celebrating in one way or another. The other day we walked to the beach
and watched a whale, just 200 yards off shore, as it breached and spy hopped
over and over in what seemed to be absolute delight. It made it almost
impossible to watch the gorgeous sunset that was happening simultaneously.
copyright Page Hodel |
Not having
our longtime friends and family around us right now we are forced out of our
old routines. We’re meeting new friends and making new traditions. We’ll be
hosting the 1st dinner party at our new house on Christmas day with some
of our neighbors. Nothing traditional on the menu, except the tamales that
Angelica is bringing. And some champagne perhaps…..
I want to
wish everyone a beautiful holiday season, no matter how you enjoy it, or what
you call it. This time of year is so precious, with all the merriment, the
winter solstice, religious and non-religious celebrations alike. Let us open
our hearts and accept the wonderful diversity of each one! Let us tenderly
embrace our own choices while honoring those of others. And above all let us
remember that we are ALL of the same family – the Human Race, the Universe and
beyond.
Much love to
you and yours~